The Essential Ties Every Man Should Own

Let’s be honest – picking the right tie can feel like navigating a maze. Whether you’re standing in a department store wondering why there are 50 shades of blue ties, or staring at your closet trying to build a respectable collection without breaking the bank, the struggle is real. Maybe you’ve bought ties that looked great in the store but barely matched anything in your wardrobe, or you’re tired of cycling through the same two “safe” options every week.

In this guide, we’ll cut through the confusion and build a tie collection that makes sense for your style and budget. You’ll learn which essential ties you truly need, how to spot quality without getting ripped off, and exactly how to match patterns and colors with confidence. No more second-guessing or impulse purchases – just practical advice on building a collection of essential ties that works as hard as you do.

The Essential Five: Building Your Foundation Tie Collection

Every solid tie collection starts with versatile pieces that pair easily with your existing wardrobe. Think of these as your tie wardrobe’s backbone – they’ll handle everything from client meetings to weddings.

1. The Royal Blue Grenadine

If you buy just one tie, make it a royal blue grenadine. Its textured weave adds visual interest while remaining subtle enough for any occasion. Look for one in silk with a matte finish – it’ll work with every suit in your closet and won’t scream “rental.” The grenadine’s texture also hides minor wrinkles better than smooth silk, making it perfect for frequent wear.

Recommendation: For a reliable entry into grenadine ties, the Oliver Wicks Handmade Italian Silk Grenadine offers excellent value with its quality construction and premium look.

2. Burgundy Regimental Stripe

Skip the bright red power tie and opt for a burgundy stripe instead. It projects authority without looking aggressive. The diagonal stripes (running from your left shoulder down to your right) create a classic look that works especially well with light-colored shirts. 

Pro tip: Choose stripes about an inch apart – anything closer can create a dizzying effect on the camera or in photos.

Recommendation: The Remo Sartori Classic Regimental Stripe in burgundy and red hits the sweet spot between traditional and modern with its 3.35-inch width. The woven silk has just enough texture to avoid looking flat under office lighting.

3. Black Silk

Despite what some style blogs claim, a black tie isn’t just for funerals. A plain black silk tie with a slight sheen works perfectly for evening events and adds gravitas to dark suits. Choose one with a width between 2.75 and 3.25 inches – this proportion will stay in style regardless of trending widths.

Recommendation: Calvin Klein’s Pure Silk Black Tie with its subtle houndstooth weave gives you that perfect balance of matte and shine. It’s my go-to recommendation for a black tie that works beyond formal events.

4. Gray Herringbone

The subtle pattern of a gray herringbone tie makes it more interesting than a solid but just as versatile. It particularly shines with blue suits and white shirts, creating depth without overwhelming your outfit.

Recommendation: The King & Priory Luxury Herringbone Pewter Grey tie has become my most-recommended tie for its versatility. The texture adds depth without being flashy, and the fabric blend makes it nearly wrinkle-proof.

5. Navy Polka Dot

Different from your solid navy, a polka dot pattern (small white dots on navy) offers versatility with a touch of personality. It’s perfect for those days when a solid feels too plain but bold patterns would be overkill. The scale of the dots matters – they should be visible from a conversation distance but read as texture from across the room.

Recommendation: Manoble’s Polka Dot tie nails the perfect scale of dots and deep navy shade at an affordable price.

What Makes a Quality Tie? The Inside Story

Before dropping cash on your collection, know what separates a great tie from a glorified neck ribbon. Quality ties share several key features:

• A slip stitch runs the entire length, allowing the tie to move and recover its shape
• Three-fold construction (the fabric is folded three times) rather than a flimsy two-fold
• Tips that are folded and pressed, not cut and sewn
• Quality interlining that gives the tie proper weight and helps it dimple naturally

When shopping, gently pull the tie diagonally. It should spring back to shape without distortion. The tip should feel similar in weight to the blade – no cheap, flimsy ends.

Pattern Play: Choosing Ties That Work

Many men go wrong by choosing ties in isolation. Instead, consider your existing shirts and suits. Here’s a practical approach:

With solid shirts:

• Any tie pattern works, but match the scale to your build
• Larger patterns for broader frames
• Smaller patterns for slimmer builds

With striped shirts:

• Choose tie stripes of a different scale than your shirt
• If your shirt has thin stripes, opt for wider tie stripes
• Avoid matching the exact spacing of stripes

With checked shirts:

• Solid ties or dots work best
• If mixing patterns, ensure the tie pattern is larger than the shirt pattern
• Avoid competing geometric shapes

Beyond the Basics: Adding More Essential Ties to Your Collection

Once you’ve mastered the foundations, consider these additions:

Seasonal Standouts

• Spring/Summer: Light blue raw silk or linen blend
• Fall/Winter: Forest green wool or brown knit
• Year-round: Ancient madder print in earth tones

Statement Pieces

Save these for when you’ve built your core collection:

• A deliberately textured grenadine in bronze or dark purple
• A seasonally appropriate paisley
• A club tie in your alma mater’s colors (but only if you actually attended)

Care and Maintenance: Making Ties Last

A quality tie can last decades with proper care. Here’s what actually works:

Storage:

• Untie knots completely after wearing
• Roll ties loosely or hang on a proper tie rack
• Allow 24 hours rest between wears
• Store away from direct sunlight

Dealing with wrinkles:

• Hang in a steamy bathroom
• Use a steamer on lowest setting, never an iron
• For stubborn wrinkles, roll tightly overnight

Stain removal:

• Blot (don’t rub) fresh stains immediately
• Take serious stains to a professional
• Avoid home remedies like club soda – they often set stains

Smart Shopping: Where to Find Quality Ties

Quality ties exist at every price point, but know where to look:

Entry Level ($30-50):

• Department store house brands
• Online direct-to-consumer brands
• Vintage shops (inspect carefully)

Mid-Range ($60-125):

• Major menswear brands
• Specialty tie makers
• Small batch manufacturers

Investment Grade ($150+):

• Heritage brands
• Bespoke options
• Limited editions

Watch for sales at high-end retailers – many quality ties can be found at 40-60% off during seasonal clearances.

Building Your Tie Collection: A Strategic Approach

Start with two versatile ties and build slowly. Better to own three excellent ties than ten mediocre ones. Here’s a practical buying order:

1. Navy grenadine
2. Burgundy stripe
3. Gray herringbone
4. Black silk
5. Navy pin dot

From there, add based on your specific needs:

• Office environment: Add subtle patterns
• Creative field: Introduce bolder choices
• Frequent formal events: Invest in black and dark solids
• Casual workplace: Focus on textured options

By focusing on versatile pieces, understanding quality markers, and building thoughtfully, you’ll create a tie collection that will serve you well for years to come. Start with the foundations, master the basics of pattern mixing, and expand based on your specific needs.